Moving on through the costas

large pod of dolphins welcomed us to the Mediterranean. There was very little wind and again we motor-sailed to maintain the 6knots that we do our calculations for ETA's on. We noticed very soon into the med that there were horrible swathes of orange scum being carried on the water surface and trillions of small yucky particles in the sea. We wondered if this was as a result of the mass hydroponic veg and fruit production along the shore. There are just mile after mile of large plastic greenhouses. Apparently the sheets are up to 100 metres long and in storms get ripped of and carried out and dumped in the sea. I wouldn't want one of those coming at me in a howling gale !!

Fuengirola was ok but we only saw the marina as we had things to do on the boat. Next day we set of for Marina Del Este but decided to anchor at La Heradura just round the headland to save money. I was like a cat on a hot tin roof worrying in case the anchor dragged.......but it didn't. Next day it was boiling and we put up our bimini, which had been adapted by Renee in Hamble.

Diary entry - the sun was so hot we put the bimini up! Its naff and the boat looks like a chinese junk !!

1st July and we are one month in. We slip from the anchorage at 7am and make for Almerimar. Its a beautiful morning and the Sierra Nevada mountians, still capped with lots of snow tower over the coastline. We discuss if we are happy with how things are......and we both agree that we are, thank goodness. Do we miss anything about home........No, only the family, and we try to keep in touch regularly. Nothing else.

We arrive in good time at Almerimar, but we had only just got in and were busy doing our engine checks ( making sure nothing had fallen off or sprung a leak ) when a spanish boat came in next to us and crashed ( slight exageration ) into our side. Bloody foreign drivers !! The result was a dented stanchion. Could have been worse. We exchanged insurance etc. He was very apologetic and seemed like a nice bloke. I told him I was a descendant of Francis Drake, so he'd better watch himself .

We went for something to eat but only got as far as one watering hole. We ordered two beers and they brought two bacon, tomato and egg sarnies with it. Tapas. I felt guilty and ordered another two beers. They arrived with two pots of meat stew and chips....more tapas. We didn't go for a meal after that. Mind the mossies were also having tapas, courtesy mostly of Susan, who has now got lots of large red lumps decorating her. While we were in Almerimar we got the stern gland re-packed...not as painful as you might imagine, and it cured our embarrassing dripping. I wonder if I could ask the NHS to pay for it. The weather forecast was not good but our friends Mick and Julia were due to fly into Almeria, so we made a dash around the corner and into Aguadulce so it was handier for them. On the way in the autopilot took a dicky fit and turned right without warning.....mmmm. Switch off, go to manual. Aguadulce was good, and we were berthed next to a couple in a boat he had built himself. We had a good crack, he was from Lancashire and she was from Holland. They lived about 50kms away and kept their boat there. Mick and Julia arrived on Sun 4th July, it was so nice to see them, but I had to break the news of the bad weather forecast. Nothing I can do about that tho'. We had to get around the Cabo de Gato which is a bit of a notorious headland and we needed the weather to settle.We all went for a walk, and a beer and watched Nadal win Wimbledon.....he is awesome. Stayed in port the next day. A french yacht came in after a bit of a torrid time. They had tried to get into Almeria but had been turned away, even tho' they had very young children on board. Bar Stewards ! Had a fantastic paella that night in a traditional spanish restaurant. Tuesday, up early, lets go for it. The weather is easing. Slipped lines by 6am. Things not too bad at first but then rounding the Cabo de Gato things started getting seriously lumpy. Poor Mick wasn't well. At 1200 I made the decision to try and get into San Jose. I rang them and they said ok ( they also have a reputation for turning people away ) so we ran for cover in there. The berth was bloody aweful and so was the marinero ( fella that helps you with your lines ). You either moor stern back ) or bows ( front ) to the quay and they hand you a line known as a lazy line, but effectionately known as a slime line for obvious reasons. It was blowing a hooley through the marina and it was not comfy at all, but Mick said he was happy without the executive decision that had been made, so that was good. To be continued when I get me batteries recharged. Great says Susan.

Gibraltar

We berthed at Marina Bay which is a bit rough n ready as marinas go but fine. The only problem was the swell running through the marina which could be a major problem if it got too windy. But it didn't, so it was ok.

We were moored next door to a permanent resident who worked in Gib. It seems quite q few people live on boats in the marina and work there full time. There is a lot of them employed in construction which is rampant there. We needed provisions so we got directions from next door and walked to Morrisons. Bloody hell ! Don't ever complain about the prices in your local Morrisons, this was extortion. Everything was at least a third more than UK prices, except for booze. Bacardi £8.45 a litre. " We'll have a bit of that" says Susan. We lugged our purchases back to the boat and had a non alcoholice shandy to recover. That is our staple recovery or just in port drink. I like it cos I dont feel sleepy after it. I make up for it later with the real stuff. We were still concerned about the bilges slowly filling with water, then spewing it out every so often as the bilges are on automatic. Where was it coming from. There are quite a few holes in the bottom of a boat. Most of them controlled with a seacock ( like a stopcock ) that either allows water in or other stuff ( like loo waste ) out. Was it one of them ? Or the log impeller which screws thru' the bottom of the hull and reads the speed of the boat. Or did we have a leak in the fresh water tank ? Only one way to check that one. The taste test. First get a nice cup of oily manky water out the bilge, stick your finger in and try to decide. Is it salty or not ? If no its the water tank, if yes, hows it entering the boat. We couldn't decide if it was salty or not....after numerous tastes.....mmmm! Right then, work back thru the boat. We eventually found it. The stern gland, which encases the prop shaft as it goes back thru' the boat was dripping constantly, hence filling the bilges. We turned the greaser about ten times which is used to grease the stern gland, and it eventually stopped. I rang Derek back in Hamble and explained the situation and he said it would just start again when we set off Basically they are supposed to drip when the engine is running to keep the prop cool, but not when it is off. Which is what our problem was. "It probably needs tightened up " said Derek, but the guy that came to do it said it was fine just to pack more grease in. I wasn't convince but I don't think he could be bothered.

Anyway, we had to see Gib. Up the cable car ( £9 each ! ) to the top of the rock and see the barbary apes. They are excellent but not to be messed with. An american guy had something nicked out of his rucksack when he turned his back on one and there is no chance of getting it back. They are vicious looking buggers. The views from the top are awesome, with Morocco in the distance across the Straits. We found the whole place fascinating and surprisingly clean after all the reports we had that it was dirty. We didn't find that at all. We went to the pub that night to watch England play Germany in the world cup. Oh dear 1-4, totally outclassed, even tho' we were robbed of a goal. The following night we had drinks with a very nice Kiwi couple, Val and Gary, who were a couple of boats along from us.It really is great meeting all nationalities and trading experiences and info with them. Oh I didn't mention, we also fitted a new pump in the aft heads ( loo ), another first for us. Well done us, we didn't have to pay anyone ! We were given a display of take of and landing practice by a squadron of british Tornado jets on the very nearby runway. I think they were celebrating our new loo pump fitting.

At 0900 we left our berth in Gib and fuelled up. We did not need that much ( about 130 lts ) but at 78p/l I wasn't going to miss out. Then we set off around Europa Point into the med. The P&O ship Oceana, which we have been on, was berthed as we left. " I've been ill on that ship" I reminded Susan. Next stop Fuengirola.

On our own - Lagos to Gibraltar

Now the scary stuff really starts, we are on our own. First stop was Villamoura, 28 miles along the coast. Just enough for us for starters. We fashioned on passage plan on how Will and Tom did theirs as we were now accustomed to it. It was a pleasant trip but not without minor incident......well, you wouldn't expect anything more would you. The wind had died on us and we decided to take in the jib ( the big flappy white thing at the front ), but it would only come in so far then stick. I hung of the front faffing around with it for a while when I happened to look around and could not see the motoring cone ( black upside down plastic triangle you must display when motor sailing ). " there it is behind the sail, I can see it" shouts Susan. I looked up to see that the halyard ( rope ) that it was attached to had become wound into the jib as we had taken it in and was jammed solid. Problem solved, unfurl jib, extricate m. cone halyard and take down, furl ( wrap ) jib and job sorted...crisis over. Then, as he arrived at the upmarket reception pontoon at Villamoura Susan gracefully alighted the boat to tie her up and two of her mooring lines unattached themselves, as if by magic, from the boat. Oh bliss !!

Diary entry - ARGHH-goodness knows what I had done, or didn't do

Never mind, we got moored up and even if they remeber us it doesn't matter cos we won't be going back. We did not like it. A rip off at 48euros a night, wifi that had failed its security clearance, naff security and very false IMHO ( in my humble opinion ). The gates open automatically so when you press the button you stand back for about 30 secs while they open. They then stay open for about another two minutes after you've gone out, time for an army of tea leafs to wander in.

Early getaway next morning to get to Isla de Canella. No, we hadn't heard of it either ! Had a good motor sail of 57 miles. As we were approaching there were pot markers as far as the eye could see. It was doing a slalom through them, then just to add a bit of interest, the fishing fleet were on their way back to harbour, all racing each other to get in, with poor old Curly in amongst it all. Needless to say skippers stress levels went up a tad. Not to worry, we got in and allocated a berth, well more like a slot. "Blinking 'eck they don't expect me to get in there do they". It was tight, but I was very pleased with the parking. A local came down to check his boat next to us, but not a mark. Its quite a nice place, with a traditional spanish fishing village on one side of the harbour and a holiday type village on the other, but I wouldn't like to stay very long.

We got up at 0600 to get away for a long haul across to Rota on the north side of The Bay of Cadiz. I had a fun 10 minutes of sign language with the marinero ( marina assistant ) trying to get my deposit back for the loo key. Whats your sign language for loo ? As we left somebody told the fishing fleet and they all decided to come out as well, as the night shift were coming back in, cue stress !! We had a fantastic trip of 70 miles across to Rota, during which Susan nodded off frequently. Rota is a very nice traditional spanish town, but it has a huge american naval base right next door. Some off the radio chat was interesting as you approach as the american ships warned merchant ships to keep away. " What are your intentions" and You WILL turn to port and give us one mile clearance" spring to mind. Its a decent marina, reasonable price and also handy to visit Cadiz over the bay ( 4 euros on the ferry ) and Seville on the bus. We did both. Cadiz we loved. Very atmospheric and intesting, Seville we didn't. If you go there do not do the open top bus trip round the city. V. expensive and not worth it. There are only about 4 stops to get off and one of those is a kids water park. The inner city is better and can be explored on foot. We stoccked up at the supermarket which had taken us two days to find in readiness for the next trip to Barbate. We are a bit worried about Curly. Our bilges are emptying every 30 minutes but we do not know where the water is getting in !! 46 miles to Barbate and just as was approaching the reception berth some idiots in a rowing boat came charging towards us causing me to change my approach, which was further confused by the hooley blowing across the harbour. Grrr, it was going soo well. Still, we got in and it seemed a nice peaceful place. Spain were playing in the world cup so there was obviously a bit of high spirits but nothing out of order. Then at 2200hrs what we later found out was an outdoor disco on the beach started. It was like we were there on the dance floor it was so loud. It went on until 0700 the next day, honestly. Gordon Bennet is was purgatory !!!! This is the same town where apparently the local custom is to make effigies of politicians and burn them on the beach !! We left at 0830hrs, somewhat jaded. Outside Barbate there is a very large tunny net strung out which you have to be careful to avoid. I was a bit wary of this but it was actually quite well marked. We had brekky at sea, fried pork loin and onion sarnies....awesome ! Next stop Gibraltar 41 miles away. We sighted a turtle as we entered the Straits. Going through the Straits for the first time in a sailing boat was excellent. The tide was against us for the first hour then carried us through after that. There were lots of big boys ( ships ) about and we used the AIS to identify them. Also listening to the Straits radio traffic was very educational. As you enter Gibraltar bay you monitor Channel 12 and try to be aware of which ships might be moving in your vicinity. We had pre-booked into Marina Bay as it is often full. This lies right next to the runway of the airport. We moored stern to here for the first time but without too much fuss-boring eh, and we had arrived, another few steps towards Greece.

R&R in Lagos

The morning after the night of excitement arriving it was bright blue skies, but the first job was to check on the crew, Will and Tom. We had last seen Tom at about 2am when we had found him staggering around, totally wrecked in town. We had taken him back to the boat but he then took off again to try and find Will, who was still in town somewhere. No worries tho', they were both snoring away in the berths. Things very slowly came to life. Breakfast was lots of black coffee, then we fuelled the boat before putting her on a pontoon in the marina.
Susan was suffering from a badly bruised elbow and jarred shoulder after slipping on the pontoon the night before. She wasn't drunk, honestly. She was just to busy worrying about Tom and down she went, OUCH !!.
Rebecca and the family arrived and it was all cooee cooee again. We all lunched together then we went back to clean the boat and Will did an engine service. We all went through this painstakingly slowly as it will be us doing it next time. We had dinner in town with Rebecca and co then as they were about to go back to their apartment the Two Amigos, Will and Tom rang us to meet up for more drinks. We had a few cocktails then back to the boat. When we got there it was like wishy-washies laundry. They had done their washing and it was strung everywhere around the boat on some spare rope. At 530am next day they were both up and away for the train to the airport. This was the end of the trip for them. It was great to meet them both. They didn't know each other before this trip, just as we did not know either of them but it would be nice if we keep in touch. They are both incredibly good sailors and we would not have wanted to do the trip without them. I think it would have put us of for life. We both learnt so much from them on the trip that will stand us in good stead for the future. It was an amazing experience but hopefully there is a lot more to come. We are now totally on our own, so its up to us. We had a relaxing rest of the week with the family which was great then there was more tears as we waved them off on Thursday. It was strange being in a foreign country waving goodbye, only it was you that was staying there.
Back to the boat. We wanted a job done on the boarding ladder then required a bit of steelwork, not a big mind. Sopramar, who are the marine contracters in Lagos promised to send someone, then when they did not come I rang and they said he is on his way. Needless to say-no show. Next day I went to see them " he will be there in 1 hour". You guessed, no show. I gave up. Bloody annoying tho' cos we won't have time in other places to get it done. By the way if any readers are in Lagos in the future and fancy a Thai meal, go to Lemon Grass restaurant. Its where all the locals go, down a sidestreet ( ?? ) and it is excellent.
Next stop Villmoura.

The Atlantic coast of Spain and Portugal

We refuelled at Camarinas. We did not realise until it was too late that the whistling harbour master had the dirtiest leakiest diesel hose in the western hemisphere and it took a while to clean up the mess after refueling. We left at 1140 and set a course of 288dgs so as to get well offshore. Things were nice and settled for a while. A pod of dolphins entertained us for a while and all was well with the world. But as afternoon drew on the already considerable swell began to increase and the southerly wind strengthened. We were due on watch at 2100 and tried to get some sleep beforehand but the noise in our cabin was deafening as the boat crashed around and it was all you could do to stay in bed. We gave up and joined Will and Tom. There was a subdued silence in the wheelhouse and I checked the wind speed which was registering 34knots ( force 8 but only just ). Will said " I hoped you wouldn't notice that ". As you looked out it all you could see was spray illuminated in the navigation lights and feel the waves pummelling the boat. Tom offered reassuring words " Your boat will take a lot worse than this ". I hope it doesn't have to I thought.Curly was literally being thrown around like a cork. Susan wedged herself into a corner of the wheelhouse clutching the laptop. Will was in his sleeping bag wedged behind the table, Tom held onto the nav station and I wedged myself on the steps down to the galley. Susan later admitted she had considered sending goodbye texts to the girls. ( some chance 40 miles offshore )Eventually we saw the lights of Bayona, Spain in the distance. Very welcome. We finally got into Bayona at 4am. Susan and I were very happy to be there, and I think Will and Tom were too, but did not like to admit it. Wills first words after tieing up, " God, lets have a drink". Susan broke out the Cobra zero ( non alcohol ! ).

We checked the weather forecast in the morning and it was not good so we decided to stay for the day. The thought of a night in port obviously appealed to Tom who persuaded Will to go clubbing and show the spanish senioritas what English boys were made of. Tom appeared from his cabin in his pulling gear which prompted Will to go and change. He re-appeared minutes later in a crumpled white tee shirt and creased white trousers. This however seemed to impress Tom, who disappeared again and changed into his white trousers. Off they went looking like extras from Saturday Night Fever.

The following day we set off at 0940. Will and Tom had not got back to the boat until 0400 but were putting on a brave face. The forecast was a bit dubious but the plan was, go out and see what it was like and if it was too bad we would run for cover into Leixos north of Lisbon ( still a good 40 miles away ). As it turned out it was horrible, but we were so keen on getting to Lagos we just stuck it out. The wind was not too bad F5/6 max but the swell had built up with all the bad weather and was 4 metres high. It was a hard slog, not as bad as the previous leg but bad enough. Into the second day at sea, and we were still rocking and rolling, but the spirits were lifted when two pilot whales briefly made an appearance and leapt out of the water about 50 metres off our starboard side. Awesome !!

Shortly into the third day at sea and we were all feeling that the end was in sight. Susan and I were on midnight to 0300 watch when at about 0230 our attention was taken by a 'kamikaze' portugese fishing boat. They have special tactics. They motor away from you and as soon as you take your eye off them, they turn and start coming straight at you. At night this can be quite disconcerting and we were watching this one intently when suddenly Curlys engine revs dropped then the engine cut out. I jumped back inside the wheelhouse as both Will and Tom appeared. They were so attuned to the noise of the engine that as soon as it stopped they woke up. The engine bay was opened up and Will went to investigate. We thought it may have been something wrapped around the prop shaft and decided we would wait until daylight and Tom would dive under the boat and investigate. Lucky Tom. An air of despondence descended like a cloud. We carried on under sail.

Diary entry-feeling flat again....are we ever going to get to Lagos

We were back on watch at 0900 taking over from Will. Will had a bit more tinker in the engine bay and we gave the engine a tentative turn over. She fired and we cautiously were under way again. The music went on, we had introduced Will to the joys of The Travelling Wilburys and spirits lifted, only to be dumped again a few hours later when again the engine revs slumped. This time the primary fuel filter was changed and we were away again within 20 minutes. The problem had possibly been contaminated diesel as the filter was gunged ( technical word ) up.

At 1800 we were on watch again when Cape Vincent came into into sight. This is where we turn in towards Lagos, maybe we'll be there by 2300. Rebecca, Chris and Oliver were there waiting for us. Our phones had loads of missed calls from them trying to contact us but we had been to far offshore to recieve them They had obviously been very concerned. We approached Lagos in darkness, trying to spot pot markers that range from a nice buoy with a flag, to a black bottle or oil container. Please do not let us get a prop wrap now. Susan rang Rebecca. "we'll be there soon".

As we slipped between the lights entering the river at Lagos Rebecca and Chris with Oli in his pushchair were jogging along the promenade, shouting their hellos. Susan was stood on the deck waving her arms wildly and shouting back. We got to the reception berth and there were BIG hugs all round. It was fantastic to see them, so special. Tom immediately went into town to meet a girl and Will joined us for a very well deserved drink or two in the bar.

We had arrived at last after a very unpleasant trip, but one not without its highlights, and one that we will bore the arse of people about for years to come.

Biscay

We topped up the fuel tanks in Camaret. Only the portside tank which took 109ltrs at 1.31 euro p/l. We went for a beer and Will checked the weather for the trip over Biscay. It seemed ok so we are setting off again in tha afternoon. Camaret is a beautiful small fishing town. Extremely quaint with a well protected harbour, although our berth was on the outside of the breakwater which would not have been comfortable in a blow.

We left Camaret at 1600 and once clear of the Avant Goulet de Brest we took a course of 220 dgs out into Biscay. Tom made a fabulous rissotto for evening meal and we had a busy 2100-000 watch due to the shipping activity.

Day 5 Sat 5th June

Pretty unremarkable except for an instrument alarm going off and we could not understand which instrument it was. Switched them all off then rebooted and it was cured....for now.

At 1515hrs our position on the chart showed a depth of 4330 metres. Now that is DEEP !!

The sea was just a big rolling atlantic swell with light winds. Long may it last I diaried.

Life aboard had now developed a routine of simply watch, eat, sleep interspersed with chats normally in late afternoon or early evening.

We picked up some hitch hikers on the way.......yes, three homing pigeons landed on Curly for a rest, then flew on after a few minutes.

Day 6 June 6th.

We began watch at midnight. It was extremely busy with shipping to watch for. At one point we had 13 targets ( ships ) on AIS ( automatic identification system....it tells you what speed and heading the ship is on and sometimes it name ).

We were heading for Northern Spain of course and so Will asked for the Spanish courtesy flag. We looked at each in disbelief as we had forgotten to get one. Susans sewing kit to the rescue. She made one out of our Q flag and the red strips from the Italian flag. Will and Tom were well impressed.

We saw lots of dolphins and it was so pleasant we all did a bit of polishing on deck. However that was about to change.

Day 7 June 7th

The wind swung between south and SW and increased to F5/6. This caused the swell to increase and made life uncomfortable aboard. We ploughed on motor sailing. It seemed never ending at this point. We arrived at Camarinas at 1750 in dark grey skies and hoizontal rain. Will called in on the VHF and as he predicted got no reply, but a man appeared on the pontoon and whistled very loudly then pointed where we were to berth. Alongside at last and across the dreaded Bay of Biscay. The last day had been far from pleasant but we had got across. Hurrah !!

We went out that night in downtown Camarinas, had a meal and a good few drinks to celebrate.

Little did we know what was to come.

Slip the lines

We set off as planned on June 2nd, a little later than planned but never mind. One of the deck lights blew then night before and Cecelia had to rush to an outlet to get one for us and bring it to the boat, as of course we did not have any transport. Renee delivered the bimini just in time, not a very good job but we will have to live with it.

Our crew, Will and Tom had a good look around the boat, offered suggestions and had compiled a shopping list which kissed goodbye to another couple of hundred.

At 1440 we slipped the lines and we were off. As we went down the alley heading for the main channel of the Hamble, Mr Chattyman ( we don't know his real name ) called to us and wished us good luck. Did he know something we didn't ?

Down the Hamble, out into the Solent and through the Needles. Tom had set the waypoints and Lagos here we come.

Will had worked out the watch system, 3hrs watches continuing 24hrs a day. He and Tom stood the watches on their own and Susan and I kept each other company, yeh ok, how sweet!!

Our first night watch was midnight until 0300 going across the channel through the shipping lanes. This was a first for us and keeping an eye out for lights, then checking the radar and AIS certainly kept us on our toes. "Whats that" said Susan, pointing at a strange glow behind us on the horizon, "oh, its just the moon", phew !!

We handed over to Tom at 0300 and hit the sack. Following day was uneventful, with a smooth crossing and then around Ushant. We all chatted and got to know each other a little better. Will Ashley our skipper for the trip is 34yrs old, lives half the year on Tortola in the Carribean and is a vegetarian ( mmm, a bit of head scratching what to dish up for dinner ). Tom Auckland is 19yrs old and lives wherever he puts his head down it would seem. I can only describe him as having effervescent enthusiasm. We wasn't even getting paid for this trip, he was doing it to build his sea delivery miles.

Our 0300-0600 watch I found a little nerve wracking as we passed quite closely tothe islands prior to our approach to Camaret. Then as dawn started to break we were able to see land. The sea was like silk. We had an awesome sunrise and were greeted by a huge dolphin which stayed with us for quite some time.

We tied up alongside in Camaret at 0945 4th June, the first leg of our trip completed.