Return to the velcro quay

Curly on Spiros pontoon

On going back in the water we headed straight over to the Spiros pontoon. We found a nice spot to go alongside and tied up. A swedish guy on the opposite of the pontoon took our stern line as we went in and introduced himself as Crystal. It was a hive of activity on the pontoon with work being done preparing three charter boats for the coming season. Spiros called down later that day to make sure everything was ok. If we wanted electric it was 5 euros a day, if not it was free. We did not have the correct connector for the power so Spiros said he would bring a one next time he was down. Paul and Marianne followed us across ac ouple of days later and work on more jobs started in earnest.

working on the solar panels

Pauls first priority was getting his new furlex fitted. This is a very expensive bit of gear that has to be cut exactly to size to fit the boat in question. All new territory for me but I expected Paul to be totally familiar with this, so you can imagine my surprise when we said he had never fitted one before. We read through the instructions again and again then set too. It took us two days to do, with Paul making about six trips up to the top of the mast in the bosuns chair, which the rest of us at the bottom making sure he didn't come down in too big a hurry. You have two lines attached to you when you go up the mast. One main line and another 'safety' line in case the first one fails. Then you are hauled up using the winches. Anyway, after two days it was fitted. The furlex is the support for the front sail, in their case called the genoa. The furlex is connected to the front of the boat and the top of the mast. The genoa is wrapped around it and can be unfurled and furled ( wrapped or unwrapped ) by means of ropes that lead back to the cockpit. Once that was sorted it was time to start on our solar panels. We had brought two 85 watt panels from home along with a stainless steel handrail to help with the fitting but after a last minute redesign went to the chandler and bought an additional



the fitted solar panels...nice job!

handrail, along with 6 metres of 25mm stainless steel tubing. This was to be the support for the panels.  Other fittings to feed the wiring through the roof were needed as well as a load of stainless steel tube connecting brackets. An added complication was that the place where we intended running the wiring was already full to capacity so we had another teak cover plate made that was much wider and took the aditional wiring needed. This was added expense that we had not bargained for but the job had to be done right.

Another job we wanted to look at was the anchor light at the top of the mast. Our anchor light is just the normal type and when it runs all night consumes a lot of battery power. The thought was to change it to an LED that would use about a fifth of the power. However first of all we had to find out what type of bulb was in the fitting. Hence it was my turn to go up the mast in the bosuns chair. Never having done this before I was quite keen to go up, even though I am not madly fond of heights, its something that you must be able to do. With everybody briefed as to their role I started my ascent. It was quite blowy and the higher you go the more the wind pushes you around.



it looks a long way down !

When you get to the spreaders ( like arms on the mast ) you let those down below know to slow down so that you can get past them at your pace, then carry on to the top. Unfortunately the bulb was not the type we were expecting but the view was good ! I brought the bulb down with me a nd we went to the local chandlery to try and get an LED replacement. We were out of luck. A quick look on the internet informed us that they were not all that common, but found one that I would order to be delivered to home when we went back in May. The following day I returned to the top of the mast to replace the anchor light bulb and took the camera for a few souvenir piccies.

It was time for a bit of r&r so we decided to have a cruise into the Gulf of Amvrakia along with the Zilver. It was a beautiful day as we motored out followed by Paul and Marianne who had some last minute complications with their plotter. Not that they needed it but this was to act as a 'shakedown' to see if any gremlins surfaced in the boats. It was so good to be out even though there was little wind. We followed the bouyed channel into the gulf. As we motored we noticed that our voltage was ruuning high, certainly higher than I was comfortable with, and the rev counter started bouncing once we were over 1500 revs. This had happened once or twice before during last year but never as prolonged and consistent as this. We monitored everything closely and recorded the readings to discuss later. He headed for Ormos Markou, which is a large deep bay near Vonitsa, that is quite well protected. He stayed for a leisurely lunch and after about two hours looked across to Zilver, some 300 metres away, for signs of life. There was none and we did not like to call them up as the may be having a sleep or 'wild sex'. The plan had been to spend the night behind the causeway at Vonitsa so we set of, knowing that they would call us when the came back on deck. The wind had got up and we raised our mizzen and headsail. We decided to do a bit of tinkering and trimming of the sails to make sure everything flowed nicely. All went well until we attempted to take in the headsail fully. It jammed. After some discussion, cursing and head scratching it was seen that the halyard that had been used as the safety line when I went up the mast had become wrapped into the headsail, hence jammimg it tight. Bugger ! I kept Curly on a constant course while Susan led the halyard around the front of the headsail then re-attached it. Problem solved and the headsail furled smoothly again. 

"Curly Sue Curly Sue, this is Zilver , do you receive, over". Ah, Paul and Marianne have noticed we have gone. We called them back, telling them we had not wanted to disturb them and we were near the nights destination.

However after a bit of banter it was decided that we would return to the lunchtime anchorage and stay the night. That night we christened the new barbecue that we had mounted on the stern rails. I managed to beautifully carbonise everything but Susans accompaniments saved the day. Well, actually I like a bit of burnt on mine so I didn't mind. As the evening drew in the wind dropped and it was beautifully peaceful. The Gulf is very much a favourite place of both us, and Paul and Marianne. There is a true air of tranquility.   





Zilver on anchor



Susan and Marianne picking mussels







Curlys mizzen keeps her 'head to wind'

 





local fisherman in the gulf

 The following day we all went ashore and picked a bucket of mussels from along the waterline. We only took the decent sized ones though and left the smaller ones to fatten up. We had noticed the previous evening that there were a lot of pigs and piglets roaming wild on the shoreline and there was evidence of where they had been digging and forraging for food. We decided to rename the bay 'The Bay of Pigs'. After a pleasant morning along the shoreline we headed back to the boats to lift the anchors. We headed back to Preveza for a late afternoon mussel lunch. On the way back we again monitored all the instruments. Everything was behaving exactly as it should. Mmmm, this was going to have to be investigated when we got back.

Once back at Preveza we could look at things a bit more closely. I decided the problem must stem from the alternator. A local contractor I already knew called Michael, who is east german, came round on my request with a colleague of his. A greek called......yes, Spiros. So we now have Spiros the pontoon and Spiros the mechanic. Spiros the mechanic is huge, about 6'6" and the same across the shoulders with a big curly mop of black hair. We discussed the excess voltage and rev counter bouncing, but whilst doing so Spiros mentioned the fuel seepage on the top of our engine. "Yes, we know, its from the injectors that were supposed to be done last year in Corfu". It was arranged for Spiros to call back in a couple of days and investigate the injectors further. The folowing day Paul and I decided to attack the alternator and remove it for further investigation. I had decided I wanted it bench testing and had checked with Christos the auto electrician if he had the necessary gear. He did, so I told him to expect us later that day. It was actually quite complicated removing the alternator as it had the ADVERC battery management system wiried into it. We made a plan of all the wire connections and photographed them as well. Then, with the alternator removed took it to see Christos. We took one look and announced  he was an agent for the type of parts required and would check it thoroughly. The following day we picked it up with new diodes and a new voltage regulator fitted. Feeling rather chipper we returned to the boat to re-fit it. Whilst struggling in the confines of the engine compartment I got a message on my phone to contact my brother, Gordon. When I did it was tragic news. My brother in law, Bob, had died suddenly during the night. We were all a bit stunned and poor Paul obviously felt a bit awkward. Once I was fully furnished with the situation I said we would be back in touch. We would obviously have to go home earlier than we had intended. Back to the job in hand......refitting the alternator. It all went smoothly and soon it was done. Thanks once again Paul.   

Work, rest and play

Work began on getting Curly ready to go back into the water, although we did not have a date booked we were hoping for the beginning of April. There were a few priority jobs. Fit a new bowthruster, fit solar panels, clean her from bow to stern and clean her topsides ( the bit from the toerail down to the waterline ), as well as a host of smaller jobs.



Fitting the new hull anode



We had tried to arrange an apartment to stay in for a couple of weeks that we would have shared with Paul, Marianne and Meis the dog as, for them, getting Meis up and down from the boat when its out the water is a bit tiresome. It involves a large bag that Meis dutifully climbs into and is then hauled up from the ground, or lowered as the case may be. Anyway, our efforts to sort this before the crew of Zilver arrived from Holland failed after a number of property viewings with our trusty travel agent cum real estate agent Jenny. Never mind, up and down the ladder it was, good exercise we told ourselves and it was good just to be on Curly again. While we were wandering back through the boatyard I noticed a car parked beside Rosanda, Iain and Bridgets boat from South Africa. We went along and saw a ladder propped up. " Hello Rosanda, anyone aboard" we shouted. There was a muffled reply and a clatter inside before Iain popped up covered in grease, oil and god knows what else. "Hi guys, I'm just trying to fix the girls toilet". Mmmm, maybe I shouldn't have hastily shook his hand on seeing him. You may, or may not remember that Iain, Bridget and the girls were the ones that had the scary experience off Italy last year when they were trying to get to Malta. Well, after getting back to Greece and hauling the boat they left, and returned to their home for a rest .......in Libya !!! Yes, they are south african but Iain works or worked for an oil company in Libya. We invited him round for a cuppa and a crack. I think he was glad of the company as he had been there for two weeks and he said the weather had been awful and the place, dead. Next day we drove to Levkas with Iain as guide. He told us a place were he had got fixed up with greek internet PAYG with a company called Cosmote. We followed suit. 50 euros for the dongle and two weeks access then two 10 euro scratch cards to top up to a month. we get 3G or 4 weeks for 40 euros whichever comes first. Yes, I know its expensive but it means we can skype the girls instead of phoning and we always will have access to the weather forecast. How on earth did those fellas Cook, Nelson and Drake manage to sail everywhere without the internet, it must have been hell. Iain was nervously waiting for a reply to a job application and when he got the good news that he was succesful we decided to go out and celebrate. We asked him where he fancied and he said he had seen a traditional place on the road to Levkas that he fancied. "We'll go there then". We drove and we duly pulled up outside the place with no name......or food !! Only four toothless old greek guys playing cards and smoking like it was going out of fashion. None of your poncey No smoking indoors rules here, it was like a thick fog inside. We left and drove to Preveza where we took him to Di Papas taverna. Its not really called that, its just our nickname for it. I'm not sure if Yannis remembered us from last year but he made us very welcome. I think non locals are still a rarity at this time of year.Its a traditional greek taverna with no menu. You are invited into the kitchen to choose what you would like. Neither is there a price list but it never works out pricey. We had a pleasant evening with Iain entertaining us with stories of their escape from Libya. He left for his new job in London late the following evening and we awaited the dutch invasion. A text at 0730 the following morning announced" THE DUTCH HAVE LANDED, ETA 30 MINS". 30minutes later a silver Merc appeared with Marianne hanging out the window waving. Kalimera, kalimera !!! ( good morning good morning )

It was a wonderful reunion and they came onboard, up the ladder to be treated to eggy bread for breakfast. It was great to see them again and a chance to catch up on things. They had en eventful journey from Holland. They had intended staying in the Alps on the way down with friends and doing some skiing, but the wiper motor packed up in torrential rain and they could not get it fixed for two days as a public holiday had been announced, forcing them to spend two nights in the car outside of Macdonalds which they used for the loo. They could not get into a hotel as they would not accept dogs and they could not leave Meis in the car as she would have set the alarm off, and they dare not switch it off as the car was full to overflowing with gear. Hence, sleep in the car.



good to see you

 We made plans about the work we had to complete and which jobs we needed each others help with. My list for needing Pauls help was substantial, whereas his list was only really to help him fix a new furlex (the support for the genoa-front sail) which is secured to the front of the boat and to the top of the mast.

the new bowthruster

I was concerned about getting our bowthruster fitted, and having partly disassembled it last year was confident(ish) that I could do the first part myself. I was expecting problems loosening the fittings that were below the waterline but they came off surprisingly easily. The bowthruster ( if I have not explained earlier) is a propellor that is located in a tunnel at the bow ( front ) of the boat. The tunnel goes across the front of the boat so that the prop inside can thrust ( push ) to both port and starboard ( left and right ). This makes mooring in certain conditions ( cross winds, strong tides or currents ) significantly easier. This is a through hull fitting so the seals must be good, note....MUST be good !! Above the prop is the gearbox which actually goes through the skin of the boat, and above that is the electric motor which powers it all. That is connected to the battery bank. It took a day to remove the old one and fit the new, but that was not including the wiring in which I knew was going to be tricky. It was and took us a day to do which included a couple of phone calls to Mike Ingram at Osmotech in Southampton to verify a couple of points.

Paul and Marianne were also busy on their boat Zilver. They even make applying the antifoul look like fun. We caught them doing this strange  dance when we called round for coffee. Note Pauls dutch orange overalls...very patriotic !!

One evening we fancied a break and decided to go for pitta giros in Preveza town. This is fast food greek style. Kebab style meat, chicken or pork, wrapped inside a pitta bread with salad, tsaziki and chips. Nosteemos ( delicious ). We went back to our old haunt and were greeted like long lost friends. Most greek restaurants/food outlets do not allow dogs in and we had Meis. Here it was no problem, they cleared a table at one side of the room where the owner was sitting with his grandson and friends and beckoned us to sit there. The owners grandson was obviously learning to play the clarinet and sat with his grandad playing. He was very good and it added to the atmosphere.They immediately brought a dish of water for Meis which was very thoughtful. We had a nice meal, but lashed out on a plate giros which is very filling. Susan had Souvlaki which is meat on skewers off the grill with salad. Complimentary ouzo to finish a good night and we returned to our boats tired but happy.



View into The Gulf of Amvrakia

At night in the boatyard the sound of the toads croaking in the marshlands nearby is extremely loud but also pleasantly peaceful. That sounds contradictory I know but it is true. In the mornings our first sight when we got up was into the Gulf of Amvrakia or Gulf of Amnesia as somebody told me they called it. The gulf is certainly a peaceful place and we were looking forward to sailing there soon.
Preperations for launching Curly were almost complete and we booked a date with the yard. We asked for a lunchtime slot so that we could leave the boat in the sling to check she was watertight after the bowthruster work, while the staff had their lunch. Once all was well the slings would come off and we would motor across to Preveza. We had spoken to our contact Spiros who said it was no problem mooring in the unfinished marina as long as we let him know the day before so he could shuffle any charter boats around.

making friends in Arta

Before launching though, we decided to have a sightseeing trip to Arta. A large town inland that the waiter on the ferry told us about. We set of early, well about 10ish really but thats early if your on greek time. The drive there was very pleasant and passed the ancient city of Nicopolis which was built by the emperor Octavius to celebrate his victory in battle over Anthony. It took about an hour to get to Arta and after parking up got out to get our bearings. A passing greek guy saw us and stopped in the middle of the road and asked if he could help us. We had no map so the answer was a resounding YES. He was brilliant. He told us all the places to go and in what order we should do them. Drew a small map then pointed us in the right direction for the first stop. The ancient Byzantine church. Paul and Marianne managed to get chatting to a passing german lady who lived in Arta but was delighted to be able to converse in her native tongue. Yes, obviously P&M speak german too. The church was incredible. As I said it was Byzantine and built around 1290. The pillars were precarious to say the least, and the paintings amazing. There was certainly an atmosphere inside. We made a donation towards the upkeep but were told that all donations go instead to help the towns poor. No problem with that then.

Byzantine church in Arta

Our next stop was the bridge of Arta of which the locals are immensely proud. It was the ancient entrance to the city.
According to chronicler of Epirus Panayiotis Aravantinos, the bridge was constructed during Ancient Roman times. However, according to some traditions it was built when Arta became capital of the Despotate of Epirus, possibly under Michael II Ducas (1230-1271). Other alleged construction dates vary from 1602 to 1606. Seraphim, the Archbishop of Arta, has noted that the bridge was built, according to some tradition, by an Artan grocer.

According to the folk lore, every day 60 apprentices and 45 craftsmen or masons, under the leadership of the Head Builder, tried to build a bridge, but its foundations would collapse each night. Finally a bird with a human voice informed the Head Builder that in order for the bridge to remain standing, he must sacrifice his wife. As the wife is being killed, being built in the foundations of the construction, she utters curses that conclude with blessings. A charming story !!




Nicopolis city walls



On our way back to Preveza we stopped at the ancient city of Nicopolis which I mentioned earlier. The original city was, as I said, built by the roman emperor Octavius around 28BC but over the centuries the city was the scene of much conflict and later fell into disrepair until a new, smaller city was built on the same site by the Byzantines. It is spread over a huge area.We walked through the eastern gateway and came across the ampi-theatre. Unfortunately it was gated and locked. We then saw a shepherd in a field guarding his flock, honestly. He was a bit concerned about Meis the dog attacking his sheep but when we persuaded him Meis was old and gentle he came across and through sign 

follow that shepherd !!



the trusty shepherd

language beckoned us to follow him to find a way into the ampi-theatre. And show us he did. A hole in the fence. " In you go" he said in greek sign language. It was truly amazing. There were tunnels under the banks of seats which you could still go through. This was were the actors would approach the stage and make surprise entrances. Marianne and I gave recitals to our mesmerised audienc of Paul, Susan and Meis. If you want to find out more about Arta or Nicopolis just check it out on Wikepedia. It was a cracking day out.



Mariannes spellbinding performance

 Well, back at Cleopatra boatyard, launch day arrived. Last minute preparations complete and the guys came round to move her, then launch her. Everything went smoothly and she was soon hanging in the water supported by the slings of the travel lift. As planned the guys went off for lunch while we, me, Susan, Paul and Marianne ferreted around the boat checking all was ok. After about ten miutes a minute trickle of water appeared near to the bowthruster housing. Uhoh.....I dried it and watched. Nothing. Mmmm....not happy about this tho'. We started the engine and tested the bowthruster to port and starboard. "STOP" was the cry from the bowthruster locker. "WATER". The pressure of water generated by the thruster had forced more water through a hole into the boat. Not a lot of water mind you, in fact very little, but water all the same. "She'll have to come out". I went to find Aris, the head guy for the travel lift and told him the bad news. He simply shrugged his shoulders " It is no problem to me" he said. Curly came out the water and went back into a cradle.

Next morning Paul and I set to trying to find the problem. Our first thoughts were correct. The metal guards at the end of the tunnel. One screw had come through into the locker and despite being sikaflexed (marine type mastic glue) in there was a minute hole were seepage had got in. A couple of hours sorted it out. Susan then gave it a good hosepipe test with positive results. "Lets hope thats sorted it ". The next day was relaunch 2. This time all went well. Aris told me that we should not feel to bad about it. He had recently but a much larger vessel in, actually a trip boat, that had six holes in it when launched. " Your boat is only 11 tons, no problem, that boat was 250 tons, big problem". It made me feel better. With the slings slipped out and the engine running, we set off for the short hop across the channel to the Spiros pontoon. Yes, in the water again at last !!