Follow the waves and troughs of Susan and Andy on their voyage to Greece from England on their Nauticat 33 sailboat "Curly Sue".....



Tuesday 29 June 2010

The Atlantic coast of Spain and Portugal











We refuelled at Camarinas. We did not realise until it was too late that the whistling harbour master had the dirtiest leakiest diesel hose in the western hemisphere and it took a while to clean up the mess after refueling. We left at 1140 and set a course of 288dgs so as to get well offshore. Things were nice and settled for a while. A pod of dolphins entertained us for a while and all was well with the world. But as afternoon drew on the already considerable swell began to increase and the southerly wind strengthened. We were due on watch at 2100 and tried to get some sleep beforehand but the noise in our cabin was deafening as the boat crashed around and it was all you could do to stay in bed. We gave up and joined Will and Tom. There was a subdued silence in the wheelhouse and I checked the wind speed which was registering 34knots ( force 8 but only just ). Will said " I hoped you wouldn't notice that ". As you looked out it all you could see was spray illuminated in the navigation lights and feel the waves pummelling the boat. Tom offered reassuring words " Your boat will take a lot worse than this ". I hope it doesn't have to I thought.Curly was literally being thrown around like a cork. Susan wedged herself into a corner of the wheelhouse clutching the laptop. Will was in his sleeping bag wedged behind the table, Tom held onto the nav station and I wedged myself on the steps down to the galley. Susan later admitted she had considered sending goodbye texts to the girls. ( some chance 40 miles offshore )Eventually we saw the lights of Bayona, Spain in the distance. Very welcome. We finally got into Bayona at 4am. Susan and I were very happy to be there, and I think Will and Tom were too, but did not like to admit it. Wills first words after tieing up, " God, lets have a drink". Susan broke out the Cobra zero ( non alcohol ! ).




We checked the weather forecast in the morning and it was not good so we decided to stay for the day. The thought of a night in port obviously appealed to Tom who persuaded Will to go clubbing and show the spanish senioritas what English boys were made of. Tom appeared from his cabin in his pulling gear which prompted Will to go and change. He re-appeared minutes later in a crumpled white tee shirt and creased white trousers. This however seemed to impress Tom, who disappeared again and changed into his white trousers. Off they went looking like extras from Saturday Night Fever.




The following day we set off at 0940. Will and Tom had not got back to the boat until 0400 but were putting on a brave face. The forecast was a bit dubious but the plan was, go out and see what it was like and if it was too bad we would run for cover into Leixos north of Lisbon ( still a good 40 miles away ). As it turned out it was horrible, but we were so keen on getting to Lagos we just stuck it out. The wind was not too bad F5/6 max but the swell had built up with all the bad weather and was 4 metres high. It was a hard slog, not as bad as the previous leg but bad enough. Into the second day at sea, and we were still rocking and rolling, but the spirits were lifted when two pilot whales briefly made an appearance and leapt out of the water about 50 metres off our starboard side. Awesome !!




Shortly into the third day at sea and we were all feeling that the end was in sight. Susan and I were on midnight to 0300 watch when at about 0230 our attention was taken by a 'kamikaze' portugese fishing boat. They have special tactics. They motor away from you and as soon as you take your eye off them, they turn and start coming straight at you. At night this can be quite disconcerting and we were watching this one intently when suddenly Curlys engine revs dropped then the engine cut out. I jumped back inside the wheelhouse as both Will and Tom appeared. They were so attuned to the noise of the engine that as soon as it stopped they woke up. The engine bay was opened up and Will went to investigate. We thought it may have been something wrapped around the prop shaft and decided we would wait until daylight and Tom would dive under the boat and investigate. Lucky Tom. An air of despondence descended like a cloud. We carried on under sail.




Diary entry-feeling flat again....are we ever going to get to Lagos




We were back on watch at 0900 taking over from Will. Will had a bit more tinker in the engine bay and we gave the engine a tentative turn over. She fired and we cautiously were under way again. The music went on, we had introduced Will to the joys of The Travelling Wilburys and spirits lifted, only to be dumped again a few hours later when again the engine revs slumped. This time the primary fuel filter was changed and we were away again within 20 minutes. The problem had possibly been contaminated diesel as the filter was gunged ( technical word ) up.




At 1800 we were on watch again when Cape Vincent came into into sight. This is where we turn in towards Lagos, maybe we'll be there by 2300. Rebecca, Chris and Oliver were there waiting for us. Our phones had loads of missed calls from them trying to contact us but we had been to far offshore to recieve them They had obviously been very concerned. We approached Lagos in darkness, trying to spot pot markers that range from a nice buoy with a flag, to a black bottle or oil container. Please do not let us get a prop wrap now. Susan rang Rebecca. "we'll be there soon".




As we slipped between the lights entering the river at Lagos Rebecca and Chris with Oli in his pushchair were jogging along the promenade, shouting their hellos. Susan was stood on the deck waving her arms wildly and shouting back. We got to the reception berth and there were BIG hugs all round. It was fantastic to see them, so special. Tom immediately went into town to meet a girl and Will joined us for a very well deserved drink or two in the bar.




We had arrived at last after a very unpleasant trip, but one not without its highlights, and one that we will bore the arse of people about for years to come.

Saturday 19 June 2010

Biscay




We topped up the fuel tanks in Camaret. Only the portside tank which took 109ltrs at 1.31 euro p/l. We went for a beer and Will checked the weather for the trip over Biscay. It seemed ok so we are setting off again in tha afternoon. Camaret is a beautiful small fishing town. Extremely quaint with a well protected harbour, although our berth was on the outside of the breakwater which would not have been comfortable in a blow.

We left Camaret at 1600 and once clear of the Avant Goulet de Brest we took a course of 220 dgs out into Biscay. Tom made a fabulous rissotto for evening meal and we had a busy 2100-000 watch due to the shipping activity.

Day 5 Sat 5th June

Pretty unremarkable except for an instrument alarm going off and we could not understand which instrument it was. Switched them all off then rebooted and it was cured....for now.

At 1515hrs our position on the chart showed a depth of 4330 metres. Now that is DEEP !!

The sea was just a big rolling atlantic swell with light winds. Long may it last I diaried.

Life aboard had now developed a routine of simply watch, eat, sleep interspersed with chats normally in late afternoon or early evening.

We picked up some hitch hikers on the way.......yes, three homing pigeons landed on Curly for a rest, then flew on after a few minutes.

Day 6 June 6th.

We began watch at midnight. It was extremely busy with shipping to watch for. At one point we had 13 targets ( ships ) on AIS ( automatic identification system....it tells you what speed and heading the ship is on and sometimes it name ).

We were heading for Northern Spain of course and so Will asked for the Spanish courtesy flag. We looked at each in disbelief as we had forgotten to get one. Susans sewing kit to the rescue. She made one out of our Q flag and the red strips from the Italian flag. Will and Tom were well impressed.

We saw lots of dolphins and it was so pleasant we all did a bit of polishing on deck. However that was about to change.

Day 7 June 7th

The wind swung between south and SW and increased to F5/6. This caused the swell to increase and made life uncomfortable aboard. We ploughed on motor sailing. It seemed never ending at this point. We arrived at Camarinas at 1750 in dark grey skies and hoizontal rain. Will called in on the VHF and as he predicted got no reply, but a man appeared on the pontoon and whistled very loudly then pointed where we were to berth. Alongside at last and across the dreaded Bay of Biscay. The last day had been far from pleasant but we had got across. Hurrah !!

We went out that night in downtown Camarinas, had a meal and a good few drinks to celebrate.
Little did we know what was to come.

Wednesday 16 June 2010

Slip the lines







We set off as planned on June 2nd, a little later than planned but never mind. One of the deck lights blew then night before and Cecelia had to rush to an outlet to get one for us and bring it to the boat, as of course we did not have any transport. Renee delivered the bimini just in time, not a very good job but we will have to live with it.

Our crew, Will and Tom had a good look around the boat, offered suggestions and had compiled a shopping list which kissed goodbye to another couple of hundred.

At 1440 we slipped the lines and we were off. As we went down the alley heading for the main channel of the Hamble, Mr Chattyman ( we don't know his real name ) called to us and wished us good luck. Did he know something we didn't ?

Down the Hamble, out into the Solent and through the Needles. Tom had set the waypoints and Lagos here we come.

Will had worked out the watch system, 3hrs watches continuing 24hrs a day. He and Tom stood the watches on their own and Susan and I kept each other company, yeh ok, how sweet!!

Our first night watch was midnight until 0300 going across the channel through the shipping lanes. This was a first for us and keeping an eye out for lights, then checking the radar and AIS certainly kept us on our toes. "Whats that" said Susan, pointing at a strange glow behind us on the horizon, "oh, its just the moon", phew !!



We handed over to Tom at 0300 and hit the sack. Following day was uneventful, with a smooth crossing and then around Ushant. We all chatted and got to know each other a little better. Will Ashley our skipper for the trip is 34yrs old, lives half the year on Tortola in the Carribean and is a vegetarian ( mmm, a bit of head scratching what to dish up for dinner ). Tom Auckland is 19yrs old and lives wherever he puts his head down it would seem. I can only describe him as having effervescent enthusiasm. We wasn't even getting paid for this trip, he was doing it to build his sea delivery miles.



Our 0300-0600 watch I found a little nerve wracking as we passed quite closely tothe islands prior to our approach to Camaret. Then as dawn started to break we were able to see land. The sea was like silk. We had an awesome sunrise and were greeted by a huge dolphin which stayed with us for quite some time.



We tied up alongside in Camaret at 0945 4th June, the first leg of our trip completed.