The Gulf of Amvrakia



At anchor in the gulf



We left Preveza mid morning and headed into the gulf. It is known as the inland sea. Paul and Marianne had told us about a place where they had anchored and seen turtles and beaver rats ( like beavers but with a long tail ).It was on the north west corner where a river runs into the gulf.It was a gentle motor there, past the site of the ancient city of Nikoplis which was built to commemorate Octavious's victory over Anthony. Some of the massive walls were visble from the sea but it is very spread out and better visited by land. We anchored about 400 metres offshore in about 5 metres of water. The water here is green and not very inviting. Who knows what lurks below !! Next morning we got up early and took the dinghy close in. There was a strong current flowing out of the river mouth so we motored gently up  the reed lined river. One beaver rat made a brief appearance then disappeared into the reeds. So far up the river we cut the engine and drifted back down. It was beautifully quiet but nothing else popped up. Once back at the mouth we paddled gently along the shoreline, me doing my best David

 Attenborough impressions. Another beaver rat appeared and swam right past us, they are about a metre long. Then we heard a big sploosh behind us. We stopped paddling and sat still. A huge ray swept through the water under our dinghy. Wow, that wa special. There is also a lot of birdlife. Pelicans, herons, terns and others that I do not know the names of. This is a special place, so tranquil. we loved it.



the river



beaver rat



We went ashore and watched the lagoon which is over the other side of the shore. It was teeming with birds.We returned to 'Curly' for brekky, then lifted the anchor to head for the opposite end of the gulf 18 miles away. The wind got up in the afternoon and we had a gentle sail, yes sail to Menidhion. After a peaceful night at anchor and a brief look at the unremarkable town we headed for Vonitsa. We had already decided that we really liked the gulf and that it was much more than we thought it would be, but en route we had the company of a large pod of dolphins playing around the boat just to add to the overall impression. First night at Vonitsa we anchored around the back of a large wooded headland but moved onto the quay early next morning when there was still room. There are a lot of liveaboards here that never seem to move off the quay so you have to grab a place when you can. 

Vonitsa waterfront

Vonitsa is a really pleasant town. The waterfront has restaurants and bars and a clean pebble beach but behind that is a vibrant working town. We are told that there are problems with gypsies there but we did not experience any problems. While we were sitting having lunch we say Dave and Sue on Scath come into the harbour. We squeezed them in just along from us, the last spot ! What a nice surprise. We went out for dinner with them that night and caught up on things. Both they and us where heading for Preveza to coincide with Denis and Sadie, whose boat was coming out the water there for the winter. Next day we walked up to the venetian castle that sits above the town and took in the views of the gulf and the shallow lagoon at the back of the town. Photos do not do it justice. Mind you, the mossies here are vicious buggers !! We bumped into Barry Neilson, the owner of Sailing Holidays who we had done two flotilla holidays with. He was in with a flotilla himself after taking part in the Ionian Regatta. Next morning we left the gulf and headed to Preveza town quay, only 8 miles away, to meet up with Dave and Sue on Scath and Denis and Sadie on Graceful. As we approached the quay Denis and Sadie met us in the rib and saved us a spot next to Scath. It was good to see them again. They had been down in the south Ionian catching up with friends since we last saw them at Lakka. But there was another nice surprise in store. As we came in we saw Zilver, Paul and Mariannes boat moored on the quay, well, we wouldn't be short of company here.



Yassas-Welcome to Greece







Infinity and Beyond

no words required !!

Lakka bay at sun down.

sundown in Akis bar, Lakka

down with the Italian flag!!

Our overnight anchorage at Ericousa had brought back memories for us. We had visited the island on a boat trip back in the 80's during a family holiday at Acharavi on Corfu. It is still as sleepy as it was then. We had a leisurely start and at 9.30am 'three ships went a sailing' to Corfu. Our approach to the island was pleaant with light winds. Denis and Sadie knew a small bay that would be good as a lunch and swim stop. We spent an hour there then carried on, arriving at Gouvia marina about 3.30pm, where we booked in for three nights. We bumped into Duncan and Julie of 'Rampage' who we met in Crotone. After a quick chat and promise to meet up later we went back to host pre meal drinks on 'Curly'. That night our 'flotilla' crews went to Telesilla hotel for a meal. This is highly recommended by people on the YBW forum and Denis and Sadie knew it from their previous visits to the Ionian. In fact the head waiter remembered them when we arrived. A good meal followed by greek dancing, that the two Sues took part in. All very touristy but enjoyable.
Susans Diary entry - Worn out, noddy head, but happy to be here.

Next day was busy. We went to get our DEKPA which is a transit log for sailing around Greece at the Port Police. It took three attempts. First time we had left our ships registration in the marina office. Second time we needed at receipt for the tax for the DEKPA which we had not paid, so it was back to marina office again. Third time, success ! we got it. Not bad going. I've heard stories of people taking two days to get it, and others that have given up trying. Greek bureaucracy is legendary. We had our sheets laundered and remade the bed with our new quilt. Ah, clean sheets, luxury. We ended up staying five nights in Gouvia. I used my cruising association 6% discount to make it less painful. Our days were busy, with jobs and leisure activities. We found a good engineer called Keith Fisher who is highly recommended. We will use him for some jobs in October before we put Curly to bed for the winter. We had drinks on board with Duncan and Julia but the weather had changed and a hooley was blowing through so we entertained inside. Susan gave me a clip out as I was starting to resemble Freddie Boswell. While in Gouvia we detected an aroma developing in the boat, and not a pleasant one. Investigation uncovered a dodgy seal on the holding tank outlet hose. A noxious liquid was oozing out and making its way into the bilges. On the face of it an easy although unpleasant job. However tightening the jublee clip did not seem to cure it. After much fiddling around we seemed to have it stopped.We then emptied the tank and began the clean up operation. Two hours later the boat wa sweet smelling again. Not a particularly enjoyable couple of hours but the result was worth it. Next day we set off to Lakka Bay on Paxos. Denis and Sadie had already gone the previous day. The trip down was nice with Susan helming. She took us between the cruise ships moored off Corfu, then straight down to Paxos. It was the England match that night and I fancied watching it in Akis bar. Denis and Sadie gave us a wave as we arrived in the bay. After dropping anchor we set to pumping up the dinghy for the trip ashore. We just got the outboard mounted when the wind picked up from the north. It started to whip into the bay bringing waves and swell with it. The trip ashore was now cancelled and we rocked and rolled for the rest off the night. The next day Denis and Sadie left for Gaios first thing for better shelter. They were in full foulies to combat the wind and rain which blew in. We decided to stick it out for a while. At lunchtime we spotted a space available on the quay and went for it. I dinghied in to check there was enough depth, then took 'Curly' in stern to. So there we were in one of our favourite places in the world, moored right in the centre of the village. How happy were we......VERY, even though it was still chucking it down. By teatime it was bright sunshine again. We spent four days on the quay at Lakka, during which we were joined by Dave and Sue on Scath who moored next to us. We also bumped into a South African family, Ian, Bridget and their two litle girls who we'd met in Gouvia. They were heading off to Malta that day so I sold Ian my Italian pilot guide for 10 euros. After a blissful stay in Lakka we moved to Mongonissi at the south end of the island, via a lunch stop at an idyllic anchorage on Anti-Paxos. Mongonissi was a peaceful calm anchorage. That makes a change. We swam, read, explored ashore and watched the comings and goings. Dave and Sue showed up the following day, along with two full flotillas which squeezed in. We were having drinks on Scath when we noticed a flash dinghy going past 'Curly' and slowing down. "its Curly Sue " we heard someone in the dinghy shout. "over here" we called. It was a couple called Martin and Linda who we had gone for a meal with, with Denis and Sadie. There superyacht ( see piccy ), Infinity and Beyond, was moored a hundred metres away but we did not know its name. It consumes 680 litres an hour. We use less than four so I suppose there is a trade off. We moved on to Gaios which is the capital of Paxos. Paxos is only 7 miles long by one and a half wide. Again we moored on the town quay. First night the wind picked upat 0300hrs and whipped down the quay. Three boats anchors broke their hold and they had to leave. It was chaos for a while but by morning calm had returned. When you go stern to the quay in these Greece you must drop your bow ( front )anchor, then reverse in, moor to the quay and ensure your anchor has dug in. Hence if the force of the wind makes your anchor break out you have no control over the bow of the boat. Hence, problem. That morning I was having brekky in the cockpit when I heard a thud and a sploosh. My mobile had slid out of my pocket, bounced on the deck and gone overboard. Bloody Hell !! Susan said later she'd never seen me move so fast. Glasses off, prescription goggles on and over the side. I recovered the phone off the bottom but it was knackered. All I could do was get a cheapy from town and transfer the SIM. Second negative of the day was we had to move further along the quay to make room for trip boats to moor. However, its true what they say that two negatives make a positive cos later that day a lovely dutch couple, Paul and Marianne and their dog 'Mice' moored next to us.



Marianne on Zilver, our neighbours



We immediately hit it off, resulting in a 0230am finish to awine and ouzo night. We woke to rain, but thankfully not a hangover. We had a quiet day shopping and clucking around the boat. In the hardware store we found red and green ( port and starboard ) funnels. " How good are these, we can use them as rat stoppers on our mooring lines" so we snapped them up. Paul and Marianne were sooo jealous, maybe!!. Next day I helped Paul change the anchor windlass on their boat 'Zilver' then we supper on their boat that night.

The following day we said our goodbyes to Paul,
Marianne and Mice and travelled down to Preveza on the mainland.               



Paul and Andy fitting Pauls new anchor windlass



We had a good sail down with the weather improving the further south we got. However when we got to Cleopatra marina at Preveza the wind was blowing strongly through the     

marina. As we reversed into the berth with the assistance off the bowthruster there was a horrible noise as the thruster sucked a loose lazy line in and wrapped the prop inside. Oh no, I just hoped no serious damage was done. I couldn't try and fix it then as the current was flowing too strongly through the marina, so first thing the next morning before the wind was up I went for a dip. After a bit of gentle persuasion I freed the line from the bowthruster and no damage done. Phew.

We stayed a couple of nights in Cleopatra and had a good nosey around to see if we liked the look of the place and also checked out the two neighbouring yards, Aktio and Preveza Marine. Then it was time to move on.