The Gulf of Amvrakia



At anchor in the gulf



We left Preveza mid morning and headed into the gulf. It is known as the inland sea. Paul and Marianne had told us about a place where they had anchored and seen turtles and beaver rats ( like beavers but with a long tail ).It was on the north west corner where a river runs into the gulf.It was a gentle motor there, past the site of the ancient city of Nikoplis which was built to commemorate Octavious's victory over Anthony. Some of the massive walls were visble from the sea but it is very spread out and better visited by land. We anchored about 400 metres offshore in about 5 metres of water. The water here is green and not very inviting. Who knows what lurks below !! Next morning we got up early and took the dinghy close in. There was a strong current flowing out of the river mouth so we motored gently up  the reed lined river. One beaver rat made a brief appearance then disappeared into the reeds. So far up the river we cut the engine and drifted back down. It was beautifully quiet but nothing else popped up. Once back at the mouth we paddled gently along the shoreline, me doing my best David

 Attenborough impressions. Another beaver rat appeared and swam right past us, they are about a metre long. Then we heard a big sploosh behind us. We stopped paddling and sat still. A huge ray swept through the water under our dinghy. Wow, that wa special. There is also a lot of birdlife. Pelicans, herons, terns and others that I do not know the names of. This is a special place, so tranquil. we loved it.



the river



beaver rat



We went ashore and watched the lagoon which is over the other side of the shore. It was teeming with birds.We returned to 'Curly' for brekky, then lifted the anchor to head for the opposite end of the gulf 18 miles away. The wind got up in the afternoon and we had a gentle sail, yes sail to Menidhion. After a peaceful night at anchor and a brief look at the unremarkable town we headed for Vonitsa. We had already decided that we really liked the gulf and that it was much more than we thought it would be, but en route we had the company of a large pod of dolphins playing around the boat just to add to the overall impression. First night at Vonitsa we anchored around the back of a large wooded headland but moved onto the quay early next morning when there was still room. There are a lot of liveaboards here that never seem to move off the quay so you have to grab a place when you can. 

Vonitsa waterfront

Vonitsa is a really pleasant town. The waterfront has restaurants and bars and a clean pebble beach but behind that is a vibrant working town. We are told that there are problems with gypsies there but we did not experience any problems. While we were sitting having lunch we say Dave and Sue on Scath come into the harbour. We squeezed them in just along from us, the last spot ! What a nice surprise. We went out for dinner with them that night and caught up on things. Both they and us where heading for Preveza to coincide with Denis and Sadie, whose boat was coming out the water there for the winter. Next day we walked up to the venetian castle that sits above the town and took in the views of the gulf and the shallow lagoon at the back of the town. Photos do not do it justice. Mind you, the mossies here are vicious buggers !! We bumped into Barry Neilson, the owner of Sailing Holidays who we had done two flotilla holidays with. He was in with a flotilla himself after taking part in the Ionian Regatta. Next morning we left the gulf and headed to Preveza town quay, only 8 miles away, to meet up with Dave and Sue on Scath and Denis and Sadie on Graceful. As we approached the quay Denis and Sadie met us in the rib and saved us a spot next to Scath. It was good to see them again. They had been down in the south Ionian catching up with friends since we last saw them at Lakka. But there was another nice surprise in store. As we came in we saw Zilver, Paul and Mariannes boat moored on the quay, well, we wouldn't be short of company here.