The Atlantic coast of Spain and Portugal

We refuelled at Camarinas. We did not realise until it was too late that the whistling harbour master had the dirtiest leakiest diesel hose in the western hemisphere and it took a while to clean up the mess after refueling. We left at 1140 and set a course of 288dgs so as to get well offshore. Things were nice and settled for a while. A pod of dolphins entertained us for a while and all was well with the world. But as afternoon drew on the already considerable swell began to increase and the southerly wind strengthened. We were due on watch at 2100 and tried to get some sleep beforehand but the noise in our cabin was deafening as the boat crashed around and it was all you could do to stay in bed. We gave up and joined Will and Tom. There was a subdued silence in the wheelhouse and I checked the wind speed which was registering 34knots ( force 8 but only just ). Will said " I hoped you wouldn't notice that ". As you looked out it all you could see was spray illuminated in the navigation lights and feel the waves pummelling the boat. Tom offered reassuring words " Your boat will take a lot worse than this ". I hope it doesn't have to I thought.Curly was literally being thrown around like a cork. Susan wedged herself into a corner of the wheelhouse clutching the laptop. Will was in his sleeping bag wedged behind the table, Tom held onto the nav station and I wedged myself on the steps down to the galley. Susan later admitted she had considered sending goodbye texts to the girls. ( some chance 40 miles offshore )Eventually we saw the lights of Bayona, Spain in the distance. Very welcome. We finally got into Bayona at 4am. Susan and I were very happy to be there, and I think Will and Tom were too, but did not like to admit it. Wills first words after tieing up, " God, lets have a drink". Susan broke out the Cobra zero ( non alcohol ! ).

We checked the weather forecast in the morning and it was not good so we decided to stay for the day. The thought of a night in port obviously appealed to Tom who persuaded Will to go clubbing and show the spanish senioritas what English boys were made of. Tom appeared from his cabin in his pulling gear which prompted Will to go and change. He re-appeared minutes later in a crumpled white tee shirt and creased white trousers. This however seemed to impress Tom, who disappeared again and changed into his white trousers. Off they went looking like extras from Saturday Night Fever.

The following day we set off at 0940. Will and Tom had not got back to the boat until 0400 but were putting on a brave face. The forecast was a bit dubious but the plan was, go out and see what it was like and if it was too bad we would run for cover into Leixos north of Lisbon ( still a good 40 miles away ). As it turned out it was horrible, but we were so keen on getting to Lagos we just stuck it out. The wind was not too bad F5/6 max but the swell had built up with all the bad weather and was 4 metres high. It was a hard slog, not as bad as the previous leg but bad enough. Into the second day at sea, and we were still rocking and rolling, but the spirits were lifted when two pilot whales briefly made an appearance and leapt out of the water about 50 metres off our starboard side. Awesome !!

Shortly into the third day at sea and we were all feeling that the end was in sight. Susan and I were on midnight to 0300 watch when at about 0230 our attention was taken by a 'kamikaze' portugese fishing boat. They have special tactics. They motor away from you and as soon as you take your eye off them, they turn and start coming straight at you. At night this can be quite disconcerting and we were watching this one intently when suddenly Curlys engine revs dropped then the engine cut out. I jumped back inside the wheelhouse as both Will and Tom appeared. They were so attuned to the noise of the engine that as soon as it stopped they woke up. The engine bay was opened up and Will went to investigate. We thought it may have been something wrapped around the prop shaft and decided we would wait until daylight and Tom would dive under the boat and investigate. Lucky Tom. An air of despondence descended like a cloud. We carried on under sail.

Diary entry-feeling flat again....are we ever going to get to Lagos

We were back on watch at 0900 taking over from Will. Will had a bit more tinker in the engine bay and we gave the engine a tentative turn over. She fired and we cautiously were under way again. The music went on, we had introduced Will to the joys of The Travelling Wilburys and spirits lifted, only to be dumped again a few hours later when again the engine revs slumped. This time the primary fuel filter was changed and we were away again within 20 minutes. The problem had possibly been contaminated diesel as the filter was gunged ( technical word ) up.

At 1800 we were on watch again when Cape Vincent came into into sight. This is where we turn in towards Lagos, maybe we'll be there by 2300. Rebecca, Chris and Oliver were there waiting for us. Our phones had loads of missed calls from them trying to contact us but we had been to far offshore to recieve them They had obviously been very concerned. We approached Lagos in darkness, trying to spot pot markers that range from a nice buoy with a flag, to a black bottle or oil container. Please do not let us get a prop wrap now. Susan rang Rebecca. "we'll be there soon".

As we slipped between the lights entering the river at Lagos Rebecca and Chris with Oli in his pushchair were jogging along the promenade, shouting their hellos. Susan was stood on the deck waving her arms wildly and shouting back. We got to the reception berth and there were BIG hugs all round. It was fantastic to see them, so special. Tom immediately went into town to meet a girl and Will joined us for a very well deserved drink or two in the bar.

We had arrived at last after a very unpleasant trip, but one not without its highlights, and one that we will bore the arse of people about for years to come.