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| same to you pal !! |
There is no getting away from it-Palermo is scruffy. Wonderful architecture, history, but litter litter everywhere !! Oh and the harbour stinks as well. The morning following our arrival my 'chatty man' from Club de Med turned up and summonsed me to the office. with my papers. Thats not The Daily Star and Mirror, my boat papers. Ships registration, insurance and passports with crew list. I knock on his portakabin door, he waves me in and gestures me to sit. He says something in Italian and I shrug. " Non parle Italiano, parla englezze per favore". "Non", he smiles, hands apart and palms upwards. Then he stands up and turns his back on me for a minute. He nturns back round and puts an expresso coffee in front of me. " Grazie". I hand over my papers, he hands me a form which I can now fill from memory.. He points to a chart with the nightly tariff. I nod, he nods and shrugs apologetically. He then hands me a map of Palermo and his card which informs me he is the official tourist information office !! "Supermercado ?" I enquire. His pen drops onto the map and makes a circle. He smiles. "Lavenderia ?" prompts another circle. "Bus per l'aeroporto ?". Big circle. "Grazie mille". "Prego" (thank you so much, your welcome ). We both stand up and shake hands. He repeats " prego, prego and beams a smiloe as I leave the office. It was like a sketch from the Two Ronnies but what a nice bloke. That day we explored the city. There are some stunning buildings, but there is also a lot of run downand litter strewn streets. Its a kind of faded grandeur. It is also of course the home of the 'Mafia'. Tom and Jazz left that evening. We saw them off then walked back through the city centre. We were like a couple of raggy arsed scruffs walking amongst the beautifully groomed and attired sicilians. What the hell, its tough this boating life and we can't look a million dollars all the time. We lashed out on a lovely lightweight quilt for our bed. Not that we'll use it for a while, its 36 degrees in the shade here. Our next stop was Cefalu for two nights as we sailed along the northern coast of Sicily. We anchored off the beach in 5 metres of water. The town is lovely. Very quaint, with narrow lanes and olde buildings. All dominated by a huge cathedral. It was The Feast of the Assumption religious festival when we were there and there was a large flotilla of fishing boats and various hangers on decorated with palm leaves and flowers went through the anchorage. There was a big fella on the front boat that looked like Pavarotti singing, then he gave a sermon to the crowd that had gathered on the harbour. I wish he'd had a word with the God of Wind cos that night it changed direction and blew in from the west. The anchorage became untenable. Most boats cleared out during the night, but we waited until daybreak before we upped and left. Unfortunately we never got to have a drink with a nice australian couple, Owen and Judy, that we chatted with on their boat 'Hitchhiker'. Our next stop was going to be a problem. We were heading east into strong easterly winds and choppy waves. I was unhappy about trying to get into Cap d'Orlando as according to the pilot guide it was small and very susceptible to swell from the east. I'd noticed a bay in the lee of the Cap de Millazzo which should give us shelter. It was a fair distance and I wanted to get there before dark. We made it only just. It did give us good protection but the seabed was patchy sand and boulders. Susan hung over the bows, peering into the water for a patch of sand to appear. As it did the anchor was dropped. As long as it stayed calm we would be fine but I was concerned about the chain getting wrapped around a boulder and us not being able to retieve it. It did stay calm and we left at first light without a problem. We headed for Vulcano, one of the Aeolian Islands, which are a string of volcanic islands north of Sicily. Once there we cruised close inshore where you could see where the lava had flowed down the steep cliffs to the sea., and how the trees had grown again out of volcanic ash. We arrived late morning at Porto de Ponente on the west of the island where we anchored. The crater of the volcano towered over us and was emitting smoke and steam. It was a busy anchorage but we just chilled out on the boat while the italians raced around in the dinghies at full throttle. It would have been nice to go in for a swim but the water was teeming with jellyfish.Later on Susan was dozing at the bows and I was reading a book when there was a big vibration that shook the boat, quickly followed by another. Susans head popped up, " is that our anchor dragging Andy". Then we both looked across the bay to the neighbouring island of Lipari about half a mile away. Blimey. There was smoke, fumes steam, gas whatever pouring out of the cliffs and sea at the base of the cliffs. It wa an earth tremor. Half an hour later there was a helicoptor hovering overhead, then later five Guardia patrol boats turned up. Not that they seemed to do anything except cruise through the anchorage ogling the fit young bikini clad or less young ladies. We rowed our dinghy ashore, much to the consternaion of the neighbouring italians, and walked into town. We weren't allowed in the chandelry. The proprietor, an elderly chap, just kept shouting " Terrasmoto" ( earthquake). The anchorage was packed that night and very roly poly with swell. We left at 0800hrs and motorsailed to Millazzo, which is remarkably unremarkable, except that it was expensive to moor in the marina. We left the following day. We were going to Taormina on the east of Sicily but to get there had to go through the Messina Straits where we would stay a night in the Messina marina. The straits are renowned for confused waters and currents but we had no problems as it was calm. The amazing swordfishing boats were out in force. They have a really high tower where two guys sit and watch for the swordfish resting near the surface. Then another fella goes along a very long bowsprit and harpoons them ( see piccies ). Its incredible. Susan watched on being caught through the binoculars. There are other sort of home made swordfish boats with just a ladder tied in the middle pointing skywards, very precarious, and all the time the are ferries dashing back and forwards from Italy mainland to Sicily through this armada of small boats. How none of them get mown down is a miracle. We moored in the marina, what a rip off. 80 euros a night for a very uncomfortable berth and finger pontoons that are not fit for purpose. We met a charming Italian/Australian guy called Marcello on the boat next door. He was a geologist and lived on his boat and simply sailed arond Italy or Croatia doing work. We left mid morning the following day. There was a wind blowing from the north straight down the starits and there were no swordfish boats in sight. We headed south and as we did the wind increased. We had 30 knots behind us and we were riding waves down the straits. Susan was not happy and I must admit to being a little nervous myself. I had never experienced this situation before. I knocked to the autopilot of and manual steered. The waves try and twist your boat around and turn you sideways on. I slowly seemed to get the knack and controlling it just by the feel of the rudder against wave resistance. I dont know if this is how it should be done but it worked for us and after a couple of hours the wind and waves abated slightly. We arrived at Toarmina where we turned into the protection of the bay. The was quite of few boats in and three superyachts. One of which had a sailing boat bertheed on its port side, a motorboat berthed on its starboard side and a helicoptor on the back. We dropped the anchore near to a boat flying the flag of Eire. We waved and called hello and there was a chorus of hellos back. It was a family on board and half an hour later they swam across to say hello again. We nattered for some time and they invited us across to their boat for a drink. Paul and Lucina O'Sullvan and their family Oisin, Fiachra, Saoirse and Feargal had been living aboard for a yaer and had sailed from S. Ireland. We had a lovely evening and Paul tempted Susan and I with a few Jamesons to finish the night off. We traded contact details and promised to keep in touch. The following morning we got up to wave them off at 0600hrs. We later weighed anchor ourselves and sailed the short distance down to Riposto marina which should be known as Rip-off-so. This place took the biscuit at 96, yes 96 euros a night. However, we needed to do a couple of jobs, fuel up and stock up before heading to mainland Italy so it served our purpose going in. Apart from the exorbitant cost it is actually a good place with two good chandelries and a supermarket that offers discount to boaties and delivers to your boat ( a godsend when you want lots of drinking water ). Another early start the next day. Up at 0500 and out by 0600. Next stop was Roccella Ionica on mainland Italy. Susan admitted to being a little nervous after the rollercoaster ride we had through the straits but conditions were good and we had a pleasant trip across. There was quite a bit of big commercial traffic early on coming or going from the straits but it quietened off. I saw a turtle swim past, how cute they are. It was a long day and we arrived about 1630hrs. We were greeted by Harold, a norwegian guy on the next berth. It was 20 euros a night with free water but no electric. Excellent. We instantly liked Roccella. The Guardia were very laid back with the paperwork and there was free bike hire. There was a good atmoshere to the place with everyone either coming from or going to Greece. A restaurant at the edge of the harbour was busy laying tables. Loads and loads of them. Their a bit optomistic I thought. That night it was packed, I couldn't believe it. Harold said it was like that every night, and it was. They could seat 1300 people and every night it was full. Now that is what you call good business. Its served mainly fish or pizzas which came by the metre. We went on our second night and enjoyed it. Get this though. As we were walking down the harbour we were approached by a group, two men and two women. They made polite conversation, asking where we were from and where we were going. They then said " no doubt you know who we are". "no" says I with my usual blank expression. "We are Jehovahs Witnesses". Well blow me over and whistle dixie, I would never have guessed that one. I didn't know they got this far south I said later to Susan. Anyway, we chatted for a bit longer about sailingy things and we shook hands and moved on. We stayed three nights in Roccella Ionica and could have stayed longer but we were watching for the right weather to move on. When it came we took the opportunity to go. We'd had a text from the O'Sullivans to say they were in La Castella so we said we'd see them there. They sorted out a berth for us in advance and as we arrived were on the quay to take first our photos and then our ropes. We had supper with them that night and this time Paul broke out the Bushmills. The family moved on the following afternoon for to get to Levkas in Greece in a one trip.We chilled out in La Castella for two nights. We had a few concerns about a knocking we had heard on the prop, or thats where we thought it was from. I tried going under the boat in the harbour but the water was so murky I could not see a thing. The area outside the harbour for some considerable distance is a marine reserve and we could not anchor there so we decided to move on to Crotone and anchor outside the harbour. The trip to Crotone had the inevitable wind on the nose and was a bit bumpy but fine. We had been given the number of a guy called Frederico who could arrange a berth in Crotone and would not rip you off. We rang him and he spoke good english. He said he could fit us in and to ring again as we arrived. We anchored off the beach first and I had a dive under the boat. Everything seemed fine which in one way was good and another bad, as we still did not know where the noise was from. We rang Frederico and he gave us instructions. Go between the yellow boat and the pink boat at the top of the harbour and I will tell the men to see you. As promised two guys where waiting and we squeezed in. Water pipe handed on, electric connected up for us, spot on. Frederico came round later and asked for 25 euros. A bargain. We heard later people were charged a minimum of 40 and others considerably more. We had a stroll around town then spent the evening on the boat chatting to other brits as they walked to and from their boats. We left early the next morning and as we did so noticed that a brit Moody 54 and Bavaria 46 which were moored further up the harbour had already left. As we cleared the harbour we saw their masts about a mile out on the same course as ourselves. " Bet I know where they are going, Santa Maria de Leuca, same as us ". There was no wind and we motored the 78 miles across to the heel of Italy. A pod of dolphins joined us for a while which was nice. Otherwise, we read and chatted and had a game of scrabble. Santa Maria was bedlam when we arrived. There were lots of little boats charging in all directions. Our calls to the marina on channel 9 ( as the book tells you ) and 16 met with silence. As we entered the harbour a big sign said CHANNEL 12. So I called on that. Still silence. I was just eyeing up a decent berth when a marinero popped up and directed us to another berth which was near the entrance and very roly. Not good. I went to check on and it was 50 euros. I asked where the showers were, " over there, but they do not work" was the reply. " Do you have internet", "yes, you go in the internet room and pay them there". What a rip off. I was still fizzing as I walked back to the boat when I heard "are you Curly Sue" ( you get used to it, honest). A guy sitting on the Bavaria 46 that we had followed across waved. "Drinks on here tonight if your interested". "Thanks very much, we'll be down in a few minutes" We wandered down and joined them. Dave and Sue from the Bavaria named Scath and Dennis and Sadie from the Mooody 54 Graceful. We had a lovely evening chatting with them, sipping G & T and winding down. They invited us to cross to Greece with them the following day which we were happy to do. It would be different travelling with other boats. It was a roly night in Santa Maria and we were glad when morning arrived. We left at 0800hrs as part of a little flotilla. We had a fantastic trip across. A beam reach and wind in our sails. We headed for Ericousa which is a small island north of Corfu. The greek courtesy flag was hoisted halfway across and we were feeling quite elated with nearing our destination. We arrived in Ericousa bay about 1700hrs and went for a swim. "bloody hell, that waters cold, I'm going home again". " Drinks on our boat at 6.30" Dennis shouted across,"I'll pick you up in our dinghy" called Dave. " OK, I'll stay then ". Another thoroughly enjoyable night in good company followed by another roly night at anchor. But it did not matter because the next morning we were bound for Corfu.
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